Kashi Yatra

Kashi Yatra is considered to be an important karma by every Hindu at least once in life time. Myself and my wife Bhavani chose to perform it this year. We were extremely blessed to have done this along with our Sadguru Swamigal of Maruthanallur. For us Guru was with us while we performed our rites for our parents and also worshiped Kshetra Devatas

Stage One: (February 2015)

The Kashi Yatra began with our journey to Dhanushkodi in Feb 2015. One has to go there and have 33 dips in Ocean and performed a ritual to collect the sand. The worship is primarily of three Pindams (lumps) formed by the sand on shore. Each of these pindams are called Sethu Madhava, Veni Madhava and Bindhu Madhava after Aavahanam. Sethu Madhava and Bindu Madhava are dissolved/consigned to the sea and the other, Veni Madhava is brought with us in a bag. Veni Madhav is supposed to be dissolved in the Prayag, the Sangam (confluence) of the Holy River Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswathi at Allahabad at Triveni Sangam.

The trip includes darshan of Ramanathwamy Temple and Snanam (bathing) at the 22 Holy Theerthams in the temple complex.

While some people carry this ritual in Rameshwaram itself, we chose to do this at Dhanushkodi as that is considered to be more appropriate.

The Ramanathaswamy Temple is of great importance as it is traced to Ramayana. Rama acquires the Dosha of Brahma Hatya as he killed Ravana in the war. Ravana was considered to be one of the greatest Brahmin of the era. In one of the versions of Ramayana, it is believed that Ravana was the priest who performed the Sivalinga Pooja for Rama before creating the bridge across the Samudra (Sethu). Rama had to perform a Siva Pooja to get rid of this dosha. Anjenaya went to Kashi to get a Shivalinga. In the meantime Sita made a Sivalinga from the sand. Rama performed worship and got rid of his dosha. This lingam is called Ramanathaswamy. In the meantime, Anjenaya brought the lingam. On seeing that the Pooja was over, it is believed that he was upset and took his Ugra (also known as Vishawroopa or Angry) Form. In order to cool him, Rama performed another Pooja with the lingam brought by Anjenaya. This lingam is called Kashinathswamy. Shiva proclaimed as a reward to Anjenya (which satisfied Anjenya)

1. He would be the first one to be seen in the temple as the devotees enter. One would find Hanuman covered with Sindoor on the left hand side as soon as one enters the temple. It is also believed that his half body is inside the Samudra.
2. Shiva also said that he would remain as Atma Lingaa ling with him. Behind hanuman in the corner one would find Atmalingeshwar.
3. The first offering in the temple is always to Kashinathswamy.

Stage Two: (May 2015)

26^th May 2015

We left Chennai by Air to Varanasi via Delhi. We reached Varanasi by noon. We went to the Kanchi Muttam at Hanuman Ghat. We had made arrangements through Mr Mani (Subramanian), Manager of Kanchi Muttam. We had our lunch and took rest for a while. We all went to Vishwanath Temple, Vishalakshi Temple and Annapoorni Temple in the evening. We witnessed Sapta Rishi Pooja and Mahaaarthi at Vishwanath Temple in the evening. We retired for the day as we had to leave early next day.

27^th May 2015

We all left by car to Ayodhya. Though Ayodhya is not part of the Kashi Yatra, we chose to visit as Ayodhya is one of the Divya Desham. We reach Ayodhya by about 10 AM. It took about 6 hours drive. The roads are just manageable. We had a good bath at Saryu River. Saryu River is one of the Punya Nadi. The water was clean and the flow was decent. We had our lunch at Kanchi Mutt. The Mutt people were very cordial and helpful.

We had darshan of Rama Lalla, Kanak Mahal and Hanuman Temple in Ayodhya. We also saw the Karyashala (workshop) where the Ram Temple pillars and columns are being made ready.

Ram Lalla temple gives an impression of a high security prison. One cannot carry anything other cash or coins that you want to put as offering. The temple is situated in a makeshift tent. The place is full of armed security (most of them are in combat ready mode) and monkeys. This temple has Rama with all his brothers. Since it is supposed to be the birthplace temple Sita is not there as his consort.

It is believed that the Kanaka Bhawan was gifted to Sita by Kaikei immediately after her marriage. Later it was rebuilt/renovated by Vrishbhanu Kunwari, the Queen of Tikamgarh in the year 1891, which exists even today.

The main temple is built within an open court in which stands the small shrine of Rampada. The main idols installed in the garbhgrih (sanctum), are of Lord Ram & Devi Sita. The sanctum is very beautifully decorated. The temple has beautiful idol of Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman. The place is maintained by the royal family of Tikamgarh in MP. The morning Prasad at this temple is still distributed by a representative of the Royal Family. It is a private temple.

The Hanuman temple is another example of contribution by Muslim rulers to the society. This is called Hanuman Garhi (Hanuman Fort). This was built by Nawab of Awadh. The legend says that the Nawab was blessed for son by the saint at Hanuman Temple. Nawab was childless for long. Nawab wanted to reward the saint and the temple was built as token of respect by Nawab for the Saint at the temple.

We came back to the Kanchi Mutt. We performed a Namasankeertan at the temple in the Mutt. The Mutt runs a Vedic school. The children of the Mutt also participated in the Namasankeertanam.

28^th May 2015

We left Ayodhya early in the morning to reach Allahabad. We reached Shiv Mutt by about 8 AM. This is the first step to the Kashi Yatra. The Kashi Yatra actually begins with the rituals at Prayaag. We all had a bathing in Shudha Ganga (before mixing with Yamuna) at Dashashwamedha Ghat in Allahabad. The first step was Sankalpam (pledge to perform various rites).

At Prayaag, two activities are considered to be extremely important. One is Veni Dhanam (Sacrificing Hair) by females and Hiranya Shradham.

It is believed that Veni Dhanam is once in life time opportunity for women. This is performed for long life of the husband and also to remain sumangali (long life for husband) till end of life.  You are not supposed to be offering this even when you visit next time to Prayaag.

After Sankalpam, we had to visit the Veni Madhav Temple. The temple has lord Krishna’s idol. It is a beautiful temple. The temple is supposed to have built by a saint who performed hutt yoga (हठ योग) of sitting of ‘platform with nails’ for 33 years.

We were then taken to Sangam by boat. There were few activities performed while we were in boat. Men is supposed to plait the hair of women. The end of the plaited hair is cut. Men are also supposed to have a head- shave or at least symbolic hair cut (as some do not shave their heads for several reason including fashion). We were told that the bathing in Triveni during monsoon or when the water is full in Ganges happen in restricted manner and using a kind of floating platform.

All these activities are carried out on the boat. We reach Triveni. The Triveni is the place where Ganga (The Ganges) meets Yamuna. Saraswathi is considered to be hidden current. This is similar to the traditional plaiting of hairs by women. The plaited hair has three strands of which only two would be visible.

The hair that was cut from the plaited hairs of women and also the Sand brought from Rameshwaram is mixed into the Triveni. The water was good at Triveni. We had good bath. The dress that was worn during the Veni Dhanam and Sangam Bathing is supposed to be left at Prayaag.

We were blessed for two reasons. One we had our Bath at Triveni on Ganga Dushera, which is considered to be a very auspicious day. Second we had the bath with Sadguru Swamigal.

After the Bath, it was time for Hiranya Shradham and Tarpanams. We normally have 6 Pindams at our home during the annual Shradham, here it is 17 Pindams (Rice Balls). They represent

1. Father, Grand Father and Great Grand Father (3 Nos)
2. Mother, Grand Mother and Great Grand Mother (3 Nos)
3. Mother’s Father, Mother’s Grand Father and Mother’s Great Grand Father (3 Nos)
4. Mother’s Mother, Mother’s Grand Mother and Mother’s Great Grand Mother (3 Nos)
5. Karunik Pitrus (1 number) – For all others whom one may wish to offer Pinda
6. There are other 4 number representing
   1. All other relatives for whom one may wish to offer Pindams
   2. All friends for whom one may wish to offer Pindams
   3. Any unknown people in our family who might have gone missing or whose living status id unknown
   4. Any pets, tree, any other living objects of our liking that does not exist any more

We are also supposed to collect Holy Water from the Shudha Ganga (The Ganges before it mixes with Yamuna) for Abhishegam at Rameshwaram to complete the Kashi Yatra cycle.

After the entire rituals, we had our food and then left for Varanasi. There are other places that can be seen, but we skipped them for want of time and most of us were too tired.

Some of the places that is worth visiting if time and energy permits are The Alopi Devi Temple in Allahabad, Valmiki Ashram on the way to Varanasi (this is supposed to be the place where Sita spent her Second Vanavasa and gave birth to Lava and Kusha), Vindhyavasini Devi (a diversion of an hour).

The other attractions in city includes Ananda Bhavan (Nehru’s Residence).

29^th May 2015

The day in Varanasi begins with a Special Sankalpam for various rites in Varanasi. After this we went to Ghat to board on a Boat. The ritual for the Day is called Pancha Ghat Snanam. We are required bath in five important Ghats in Varanasi and offer Pindams (rice balls). The rice for Pindam is cooked on the boat. While there are options of carry the cooked rice from the Mutt, we preferred cooking them on boat. Cooking on boat is more auspicious and proper.

The Ghats covered were Assi Ghat, Dashashwamedha Ghat, Pancha Ganga Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat and Varuna Ghat. “Varanasi” word is actually derived from Varuna and Assi. These are the two rivers that was the boundary of the city that was named as Varanasi. Varuna and Assi were once a full flowing rivers. Today it is a small rivulet and till recently used to be full of filth only. With recent intiatives these water in these to rivulets have become good. Varuna being far off, the ritual is performed at a ghat called Trilochan Ghat.

At each of the ghat, we had to take a dip in the river and then get into the boat to perform the Pinda Danams. Here also like in earlier instances, we have to offer 17 Pindams. After the ritual, these Pindams were put into the river.

The rest of the day was meant for rest. But we had something better waiting. The day was an Ekadasi and Swamigal decided to do Namasankeertanam at two places. First one was at the house of the Sastrigal (Kedar Shastrigal) who was performed our Sankalpam and also other rituals on other days. That was followed with another bhajan at Bhajanai Mandapam in Hanuman Ghat.

30^th May 2015

This turned out to be a hectic day. We started early morning at about 5 AM. We all took cycle rickshaw.

First visit was to Bhairavar Temple. Bhairavar is supposed to the Protector God of Varanasi.

After Bhairavar temple we visited to Dandayudhapani Temple. In Kashi, Dandayudhapani is also treated as one of the Bhairavar. Though for us in South he is Lord Karthikeyan. One must visit these two temples during this trip.

We then went to Varahi Temple. The Goddess Varahi is supposed to be the Goddess that protects Varanasi in night time. The Goddess here is worshipped only in the early hours starting at about 4 AM. Temple Opens at about 6.30 AM and remains open till about 9.00AM. The Goddess is in a basement. One is supposed to have the darshan of the goddess through two holes. First ones is used to see the face and the second one to see the feet.

From here we went to visit Sankat Mochan Temple. An old temple and is famous for its annual musical festivals. The temple is believed to have been made by Sant Tulasidas. The temple often crowded. One is not permitted to carry anything (not even a pen) other than Prasad (sweets), flowers and cash. Despite such security the devotees must take care or their ornaments as they can be removed in rush without your knowledge.

The next temple was Tulasi Manas Mandir, which is a temple built by Birlas. Neatly maintained temple. After this we visited Durga Temple. It is a very old Durga temple.

From Durgaa Temple we went to Solai Amman Temple (locals call it Kaudi Mata Devi). This is another temple that must be visited during the religious trip to temple. It is a very small temple. One is expected to buy some Solai (Kaudis – small conches) and offer to the goddess. This is considered to be an important act that symbolises successful completion of Kashi Yatra.

We ended our morning trip to temples by visiting Tulasi Ghat. This ghat is important as it is believed Tulasidas wrote Ramayana at this Ghat.

Once we reached Hanuman Ghat, we bathed in Ganges for starting the Anna Shradham at Varanasi. This is similar to the annual Shradham performed by us. There are some subtle differences in the rituals and sequence of activities during the Shradham. We performed this with 5 Brahmins. We offered them Vastrams as well. After the rituals and our lunch, we started our journey to reach Gaya.

This travel was by road. We reached Gaya by about 8 PM. We had carried something to eat from Varanasi.

We stayed at the Kanchi Matham in Gaya which is very close to Vishnupad Temple. We had a darshan at the temple. This darshan was great as this is the time when the Vishnupadam (the feet of Vishnu) is decorated with sandal powder. The other times the Padam would not be visible as clearly as in evening. The panda there gave us a cloth with the imprint from the Vishnupadam. This was placed on our head by the Panda and we are supposed to carry it till we come out of the temple. This cloth can be framed and kept in our Pooja room.

31^st May 2015

This was rather a tough day. The rituals started late. The rituals are carried at multiple stages.

The story of Gaya Shradham relates to the Shradham performed.

First Pindams (17 Nos) are offered and this is called Phalguni River Pindam Danam. The river does not any water flowing. Since there is no water in the river, these set of Pindams are given to cows on the bank of the river.

The next offering is with 64 Pindams. This set of Pindams are in addition to the 17 (done earlier) are for any other members of the family, friends, pet animals, trees, animate or inanimate articles. Out of 64, 16 Pindams are dedicated for mother. This is a kind of thank giving to the mother who has gone through various pains and tolerated us rite from the time she conceives us till she dies. She goes through the pain and sacrifice she willingly underwent during pregnancy, delivery, feeding and raising us till she is alive.  This set of Pindams are offered to the Vishnupadam. We were told that all these pindams are collected and given to the cows in the houses of the Brahmins (Pandas).

After this Anna Shradham is performed at the Matham. The Brahmins who come to eat in Gaya can be even children. There were 17 Pandas who came for eating. (5 for us and rest of other Yatris). All of them (Pandas) except 2 were from same family. We were told that it virtually impossible for any new panda to enter into this circle. The groups are rigid and operates in almost a unionised scenario. They were offered Vastrams and Food.

Once this was completed, our next destination was Akshaya Vada. Again there the Pindam is offered. One is supposed to “Give Up” one fruit, one vegetable and one leaf here. It is a kind of danam performed. This is once in life time. There are some guidelines for selecting the items that you can “Give Up”. This also means that one cannot consume / use these items for their life. Husband and Wife are expected to leave the same item.

1. Fruits –> One should leave a fruit that you like. However it is not recommended to “Give Up” Banana. We gave up Sapota
2. Vegetable –> There are two school of thoughts. One says you “Give Up” one that you like most. Another school of thought is to “Give Up” one of the vegetable that one uses for Shraddha at home. We gave up Kottavarangai (a variety of bean, which is used in Shraddha Food. We went by the advice of our Family Sastrigal. Like in fruit one should not leave Banana or Stem of Banana.
3. Leaf  –> There are two interpretation of this. One belief is that it should be one of the leafy vegetables. Another belief is the leaf that one can use as container or plate. We chose to leave Ala Leaves. No specific reasons, but we were advised on this by our Family Sastrigal. However, one should not leave Banana Leaves.

After this the Pindams are spread on the roots of Akshaya Vada. With this the activities at Gaya is completed.

We had our food and started our return journey to Varanasi. On the way back, we went to see the place where Sita is supposed to have offered the Pindams to Pitrus of Rama. There is a small temple of Sita with a Hand (symbolises the hands of Dasharatha) receiving the Pindams.

We also took a small break at Bodhi Tree in Bodh Gaya. We visited only the main site where Lord Buddha is supposed to have got his enlightenment. There are many other Buddha Temples and Monasteries in Bodh Gaya. Each one of them is as good as the rest. One can see those if time permits and planned.

It was an exhausting day for all of us.

1^st June 2015

This was the last day at Varanasi. We had a bath at Shivala Ghat (near Hanuman Ghat). We performed Ganga Pooja there. It is a worship and offering to Ganges. An important ritual as part of this journey. This can be offered even by casual visitors.

We are required to perform Dampati Pooja. This is a Pooja to an elderly couple. They are worshiped. They are offered Vastram (Dhoti and Saari) along with other items like bangles, kumkum etc.

We had some time to do shopping. We could complete entire shopping at one place in Hanuman Ghat itself. It saves time and prices were reasonable.

We left Varanasi in the evening to Chennai via Delhi.

Stage Three (June 2015)

25^th June 2015

One is supposed to be bringing the Ganga Water from Shudha Ganga in Prayaag and perform abhishegam of Ramanathswamy at Rameshwaram. This is usually a one day affair. We stayed at the Kanchi Mutt near Agni Theertham.

In the forenoon we took bath in Agniteertham followed by 22 Theertham inside Ramanathswamy Temple.

Afternoon, we performed a chanting of Chamakam, Namakam, Purusha Suktam, Narayana Suktam and Sri Suktam by 11 priests. This was done at the Mutt itself.  This was preceded by the worship of Ganges Water in a Copper vessel. The vessel or container in which Ganga Water is given for Abhishegam is not returned.

We went to the temple where we witnessed abhishekham of Lord Ramanathswamy with this water and milk.  We also had darshan of Paravatavardhini (consort of Ramanathaswamy).

With this the stage three got completed.

Stage Four

27^th June 2015

The final event in this process is a Samaradhana at home. This is a kind of thanks giving worship to our Kuladevata, Lord Muruga (Karthikeya/ Swaminatha). A Pooja is also performed to Ganga Devi.

This is a simple affair. We recited Ashtotrams for Ganges, Shiva, and Lakhsmi. We chanted Sahasranamam for Muruga. 5 Brahmins are offered Vastram (Dhoti) and food. A Dampati (Couple) Pooja was also performed.

Close relatives are also invited for this function. It is believed that only after this function one should distribute the prasadams brought from Kashi to others. We gave away some of those items to people who came for the function.

We completed an important duty as couple and also as individual in our life time. It was extremely satisfactory.

Om Namah Shivaya!

Hare Rama Hare Rama

Hare Krishna Hare Krishna